Ana Sortun's Potato Risotto

So far I've tried only a handful of recipes from Ana Sortun's Spice, but I've loved every one of them—each has been unusually delicious.  This is a creamy, indulgent "risotto" made with finely diced potatoes instead of rice.  How nice!

We've been trying to decide how we should get our fruits and vegetables this summer, the two viable options being delivery (by Urban Organic) and weekly trips to the greenmarket and grocery store.  It's nice to pick things out, and I love farmers' markets, but delivery is really convenient when you live in a big city.  Plus I wondered whether Urban Organic would be a better deal: can you really get 11-13 kinds of produce from the greenmarket for $25?

You can get close, as it turns out.  Here is our $25 haul from Friday:

Lettuce, sugar snap peas, strawberries, potatoes, tomatoes, green and yellow zucchini, asparagus, beets, and radishes.  So many colors!

The tiny, fresh potatoes—the size of ping-pong balls—reminded me of a recipe I had seen in Spice.  Or, rather, it reminded me of a story I had seen in the book, in which she gushes about her first experience with and abiding love for just-dug potatoes.  It's a little over the top: could there really be a noticeable difference between just-dug tubers and those that are a week old?  But here I was faced with some of the little things, and I decided to give her recipe a try.

It's delicious.  I highly recommend it—and I think it would be just as good with small potatoes from the grocery store.  But the amount of cream called for is excessive; I used about 3/4 of the amount and it was needlessly rich.  Next time I'll use half the amount, and use milk or water (or a light vegetable broth) for the rest.  I didn't have the olives she calls for, so I used black ones.  Any mild olive will do; assertive ones will take over the dish.

It's also relatively easy and quick, given the flavor and sophistication of the end result.  It's something you'd be happy to get in a fancy restaurant.  And you can do it in less than 45 minutes!  The main task is dicing the potatoes into tiny cubes (the term, ahem, is brunoise) about 1/8" - 1/4" per side.  That takes a little while (this is not something to make for a crowd!).  But then it's easy: you sauté some shallots, add the potatoes, add the liquids and salt and pepper, and simmer everything until the potatoes are tender, about 20 or 25 minutes.  Don't overcook it: the genius of the recipe is that the potatoes become tender and buttery, but they keep their shape.  They aren't soft.  Test often, and stop cooking when you like what you have.

Add herbs, olives, and nuts (or whatever you'd like to add), and serve with a very small amount of parmesan on top.  It doesn't make a large quantity, but it's rich and filling and incredibly flavorful, so you don't want or need a vast amount.  Imagine it in a ginormous white restaurant bowl, and it'll seem like the right amount.  We had it with a green salad.  

Potato risotto
(Adapted from Spice)

Serves 2

2 cups finely diced waxy potatoes (small red or gold ones)
1 large shallot, minced
2 tsp. olive oil
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup 2% or whole milk, or a light vegetable broth
salt and pepper
1/4 cup mild olives, chopped*

2 T chopped toasted walnuts or pine nuts

1-2 T chopped herbs**

1 tsp. lemon zest

1/4 cup Microplaned Parmesan

* Plain black, Picholine, Lucques, or another mild olive

**Sortun calls for rosemary, but I had marjoram.  Lots of herbs would work here.

Sauté the shallot in the olive oil over medium heat for about two minutes.  Add the potato, stir it around, and cook for another minute.  Add the liquids and a pinch of salt and pepper, and simmer gently for 20-25 minutes until the potato cubes are tender (test to see!).  You may want to add a few more tablespoons of liquid to thin things out.  When it's done, add the olives, nuts, and herbs, and simmer for another minute.  Taste and adjust salt, pepper, and herbs.  Divide between two bowls and grate a tiny bit of cheese on top.  Ooh and ahh.

:D